Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.